We took the CalMac ferry from Mallaig to Skye, an easy 30 minute ride. It was sunny and breezy, perfect for standing on the top deck and watching the scenery and an occasional dolphin.
Looking back towards the highlands.
We'd read about two long-deserted and crumbling castles that could be visited, and thought they would be fun to explore as we slowly made our way towards our B&B outside Portree.
The ruins of the first, Knock Cattle, were easy to spot but difficult to access. After several false starts (in the course of which we'd find ourselves on a steep gravel road we'd back out of, or slogging through a boggy tidal area only to realize there was a wide stream between us and the castle), we finally made our way to the promontory on which they were perched.
The castle was built in the late 13th century by the Macleod clan and then taken and expanded by the MacDonald clan about 200 years later. It was abandoned sometime in the 1600s and stone was thereafter pilfered from the structures for use in other projects. Today it is primarily visited by sheep that graze about the ruins, necessitating great care be taken in watching where you step.
We then set off to find Dun Scaith Castle. This entailed a beautiful 6 mile drive down a one lane road past free ranging sheep and shaggy cattle. The one lane roads have little pullouts every quarter mile or so. When 2 cars approach each other, whoever has the closest pullout yields to the other. If that requires backing up to it, that's what you do. The system works well: drivers are patient and cooperative.
The castle was reached by a gravel path and then across grassy and granite hills to the base of the castle stronghold. Like Knock Castle, Dun Scaith was built by the Macleods and later became a principal seat of the MacDonalds.
It was easy enough to walk to the castle ruins, but entering it was another thing altogether. The drawbridge is long gone, leaving a gaping hole with a significant drop below.
Note the perplexed expression as he ponders his return strategy.
This is how it's done.
Having less sense than Lydia and with a helping pull up the last bit, I made the crossing and climbed to the top. There is not much there: a few scraps of wall, a rich carpet of grass and some sheep who scramble up an even more difficult route.
The views from nearby cliffs across Loch Eishort to the Coillin mountains are spectacular.
We passed this waterfall and lots of heather between Broadford and Portree.
We checked into our B&B, Tulach Gorm, and I had a rest while Lydia talked with the owners. Don has a wealth of information about walks all around Skye, and detailed maps and hiking guides for his guests. I think I could easily spend a week here and just enjoy a good walk and the scenic views every day.
The B&B location is amazing. I'll take more photos tomorrow, but this is behind the beautifully landscaped back garden.
Croft house
At Don's recommendation, we had dinner at the Pier Hotel in Portree. It's a tiny place (7 tables) with a small menu of 6 appetizers and 8 mains. They were full up, so we had a drink in the adjacent bar while we waited for a table. For perhaps the first time in my life, I ordered beef that was not disguised in some form or other (ground beef). And it was good. And it came with lots of fresh vegetables.
Portree harbor.
In the carpark, Lydia noticed a problem with one of our tyres. It's not flat, but damaged and needs to be replaced. Lots of potholes here. So we'll be dealing with that tomorrow. At least we are near the biggest town on Skye.
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