We split into 2 groups for most of the day. Jeff and Greg went looking for good photo locations and geocaches, while Mark and I followed a guidebook most of the morning.
The Corral del Carbón is the only remaining caravanserai of the fourteen which were originally in Granada. As it’s only a block from the silk market, this would have been a prime location. After the Catholic conquest the space was used for coal storage, hence the name.
The Alcaiceria, the Moorish silk market, had 10 armed gates and its own guards to protect the 200 shops trading silver, spices and silk. The conquering Christians kept the market open until Philip II shut it down. A fire destroyed what remained in the mid 1800s. It was rebuilt later that century and today is a dense maze of narrow alleys lined with tourist shops and eateries.
Next stop was the Granada cathedral, one of the largest in Spain. The conquering Christians razed the mosque that stood there and built their cathedral on the same spot. Construction started in the early 1500s and was not completed until the late 1700s. So it was started as a Gothic church, built with Renaissance elements and decorated with Baroque ornaments.
Entry doors
The main church is vast and airy with good light. Two aisles flank each side of the nave. Enormous white cruciform pillars support the domed ceiling.
A pair of organs flank the nave.
The cathedral is austere in the middle, and over-the-top ornate around the perimeter.
Adjoining the cathedral is the Capilla Real, or Royal Chapel. It’s the burial place for Ferdinand and Isabella, as well as their immediate successors. No photos were allowed there. One can visit the tombs which rest below effigies carved of Carrara marble. The effigies were patterned on death masks and are said to be accurate resemblance of the monarchs who created modern Spain.
The entrance to the Royal Chapel is in the center, and a former madrasa is the balconied building on the left
We walked through the Plaza Nueva, the main square during the time of Ferdinand and Isabella, to wander up the steep alleys into the Albayzín Moorish quarter.
Plaza Nueva
The feast of the three kings is fast approaching. They bring gifts to good children, so there are very well-behaved kids in Andalusia this week.
We ran into Greg and Jeff while walking along the Darro River (actually more like a stream) that runs through the city. From either side rise the steep hills upon which the Albayzín and the Alhambra are built.
We split up again and headed up into the Albayzín neighborhood to explore and see its iconic views of the Alhambra.
Many of the cobblestones streets are too narrow to accommodate any type of conveyance wider than a donkey. Some have deep, shallow steps to ease the climb, while others have a smooth resurfaced strip down the middle to make it easier to take a stroller or bike on the pathway. Every turn brought interesting views.
We stopped for a snack of sangria and fried anchovies in a little square. A dog kept watch over the proceedings, oblivious to the apparent former glory of his frescoed building.
An old wall snakes up the far side of the hill.
Most travelers come to Granada to visit the Alhambra. It’s one of Europe’s top destinations. We had great views from the San Nicolás viewpoint from the top of the Albayzín. It’s an extremely popular gathering spot, so we were happy to stumble upon a nearby, nearly deserted park with similar views.
There is also a new mosque behind San Nicolás that offers an oasis of relative calm and more good views.
We found Greg and Jeff and snagged a table in a little restaurant hugging the cliff side just under the San Nicolás viewpoint to watch the light change over the Alhambra as the sun set.
Charles V Renaissance Palace
Palacios Nazaríes, the Moorish royal palace
We headed back down towards the old town and picked up some food for breakfast on our way back to our place. There was a convenient little place to hitch your pup while in the store.
Mark and Jeff went out for a light tapas dinner, while Greg and I just stayed in. Later we all shared part of a king cake, a seasonal treat and tradition that celebrates the arrival of the three kings in Bethlehem.
Greg found the king hidden in his piece of king cake and is thus guaranteed a year of good luck.
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