2022 Ecuador Day 1 - Toucans, Tortoises and Boobies - Oh My!

We set off early this morning, excited to begin our Ecuador adventure with National Geographic Expeditions. We’ve never traveled with them before, but I grew up with National Geographic Magazine in the house and give them credit for much of my wanderlust. We couldn’t imaging a better company to guide us through visits to some of the world’s most pristine nature sanctuaries. The draw for this trip was a week on an expedition ship exploring the wildlife and ecology of several Galápagos Islands. We tacked on an optional extension in a cloud forest nature preserve. We’re excited mostly about the ecology and wildlife we’ll be seeing, but also looking forward to a couple of days in Quito to learn about Ecuadorian culture and history. 

Maggie, as usual, showed some interest in sneaking along on the adventure. But after our recent drive to Florida for the winter, we think both cats were secretly relieved to realize that packed suitcases and backpacks did not necessarily mean another 1,100 miles in the car. 

We flew from Tampa to Quito, by way of Miami. 

Ecuador, located in northwestern South America, is about the size of Colorado. It’s bordered by the Pacific Ocean to the west, Columbia to the north, and Peru to the east and south. Its full name in Spanish translates to “Republic of the Equator”.

Archeological evidence suggests that early hunter-gatherers arrived in Ecuador 16,500 - 13,000 years. They arrived either overland via North and Central America, or by boat, coming south along the Pacific coast. The area was incorporated into the Inca empire during the 15th century, about 100 years before the Spaniards arrived. Along with Spanish colonization and forced labor, the Europeans brought new infectious diseases which decimated the native population, much as in North America.  

In 1820, after three centuries of Spanish rule, Ecuador joined Simon Bolivar’s Republic of Gran Columbia (a region that included what is now Venezuela, Columbia, Ecuador and Panama). It became a sovereign state in 1830. Two years later, it annexed the Galápagos Islands. 

Reflecting its history, the population of Ecuador is ethnically diverse. Over 70% of the 18 million people are mestizo (mixed Indigenous and White). There are also around 7% each of Native American, African (slavery was abolished in 1851) and European descent. In addition to the official language (Spanish), 13 native languages are recognized. 

Ecuador is one of the world’s 17 megadiverse countries. It values and is protective of its unique ecological diversity. Climate zones vary from Andes peaks to mountain cloud forests to Amazon jungles to Pacific coastlines. And of course, 620 miles west of the mainland, are Ecuador’s Crown Jewels: the Galápagos Islands. Ecuador’s 2008 constitution was the first in the world to recognize legally enforceable Rights of Nature (ecosystem rights).

We were surprised to learn that the US Dollar has been Ecuador’s official currency since 2000. After a period of economic instability, the country abolished the Ecuadorian sucre and adopted the dollar. It makes purchases super easy for us here. Use of the dollar coin is much more common here that at home in the US. 

Quito is the capital and largest city of Ecuador. Its name comes from Quechua (“Kito”), the language from the Incas, which is also spoken by many native peoples in Peru. Quito sprawls down the eastern slopes of an active Andes volcano. The area is seismically active, with both tremors and earthquakes (as they call anything 5 and up on the Richter scale.) 

Although the Equator is only about 1/2 mile out of the city boundaries, the climate is temperate due to its altitude. At 9,350 ft, Quito is the second-highest capital city in the world. It’s also the oldest capital in South America, with the largest and best-preserved historic center in the Americas. The historic center was recognized as one of the inaugural dozen UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1978.  

We were met at the airport by a representative from a local tour company. On our 45 minute drive to the old city, she pointed out places of interest (an upscale neighborhood called Kumbayah) and gave us some local info. 

Quito is experiencing a period of rapid growth, largely due to the influx of immigrants from struggling Venezuela. Over 1 million Venezuelans arrived in Ecuador last year. Over half stayed here, and half of those have received visas so far. Quito is working hard to integrate the new arrivals into schools, reasonable housing and jobs. 

Our hotel, Casa Gangotena, is situated on the plaza de San Francisco in the historic district. The structure that became the hotel was built in 1600 on the largest square in Quito, on a corner abutting the San Francisco church and monastery. (Fun fact for Mark: the original family sold the house to a wealthy cacao impresario during the era of independence.)

Casa Gangotena is on the left. 

The building suffered catastrophic damage in a 1914 fire and was rebuilt in a palazzo style in 1926. Decades passed and the house fell into slow decline until the last two resident sisters died in the 1990s. The house sat quietly empty until 2007 when the former Quito mayor Roque Sevilla (of whom we’ll hear more in a a day or two) bought the house and began renovations. Casa Gangotena opened 3 years later. 

The hotel is lovely, with courtyards and rooms full of light. We’re on a busy little shopping street, but hear nothing from outdoors when our french door windows are closed. 

That’s Greg at the top


The view from our bedroom

We set out to walk around the immediate area. We found the Tourist Office closed, so we crossed to the Plaza de la Indepedencia to look at the surrounding buildings. The Quito Metropolitan Cathedral looked interesting. We learned we needed tickets to go inside and speculated whether admission would be included in our walking tour tomorrow. Then we discovered that tickets were all of $2.00, and decided to splurge.

We expected to tour the interior of a magnificent church. Instead, we found the incredibly expansive, detailed and delightful Pesebre Monumental (monumental manger). The project spans nearly 3,000 square feet - or twice the area of our Florida home! 

It includes over 1,600 pieces, 600 of which move. It took 7 technicians 50 days to assemble. The display includes pyramids, a running river, a thunderstorm, Herod’s palace, biblical scenes, the temple in Jerusalem, and hundreds of figures doing everything from stirring a pot to rocking a baby to playing on a swing. The lighting cycles from day to twilight to night to dawn, and the moving figures are active only during their appropriate times. Cattle low, birds chirp, thunder cracks. We were both rather captivated; the details are amazing. Originally created in Loja, the manger was designed to teach children their catechism. It’s in Quito for 2 1/2 months, so it’s just happenstance that we stumbled upon it. 

We had dinner at an Ecuadorian restaurant in a renovated 16th century bishop’s palace.

 I had potato soup with avocado and cheese, and a chicken, olive and potato tamale. Greg had a chicken and mushroom sauce dinner. Inexpensive by US standards, and very good. Then we wandered back to our hotel through the early darkness. (Being at the Equator, the sun rises year-round around at 6 AM and sets 12 hours later.)

Quito Cathedral, which houses the monumental manger. 

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