We left Belgrade this morning and stopped for several hours in Sremski Karlovci, a Danube River town in the northwest corner of Serbia This region is on the border of the Ottoman Empire and the Western World. To the west is Croatia, to the north, Hungary and to the east, Romania. It hosts a diversity unknown in the rest of Serbia, with 25 ethnic groups, six official languages and a blend of Hungarian and Serbian traditions.
After the Peace of 1699 allocated northwest Serbian areas along the.shores of the Danube to the Austro-Hungarian empire, parts to the south (including Belgrade), stayed under Ottoman rule. In Sremski Karlovci, the influence of 18th century Vienna is apparent. For example, the iconostasis in the Orthodox Church is decorated with oil paintings and ornate Baroque ornamentation instead of the usual frescos and mosaics.
A short walk away, we visited the high school for future priests - a seminary to prepare young men for the university of priests. About 15-17 fourteen year old boys are admitted to the seminary each year. After completing elementary school, they are recommended by their local bishops, and selected by ability in religious knowledge, scholastics and especially singing ability. They attend the seminary for 5 years studying theology, 5 languages, beekeeping and other subjects. A poised young student, 16 years old, met with us to answer questions.
Serbian Orthodox priests must marry (at age 25) and have families.
One of the original classrooms, preserved with blackboard and desks
Karlovci Grammar School was the first high school in Serbia. Established in 1791, today it is a coeducational school focusing on ancient and modern languages. The language classes have only 12 students, and include advanced skills such as translation. The curriculum includes standard academic subjects like math, history and geography. It’s a competitive school; students apply here from around the country. Tuition is free, and boarding students have inexpensive fees if they stay in the school dormitories. Girls, first admitted about a century ago, now comprise well over half of the students today.
The school library includes rare books. This is one of only 10 copies of an ancient Serbian book.
We had a delicious goulash lunch in the cellar of an old home.
This little beauty is a Yugo, This car, manufactured from 1980-2008, was initially a subject of great Yugoslavian pride, and later, great derision. They’re now pretty rare.
Down the block we visited a strange little museum of beekeeping and winemaking. (Don’t usually think of them in close conjunction.)
We continued on to Novi Sad, the birthplace and home of our guide, Srdjan. Novi Sad is the second largest city in Serbia. It was founded in 1694, and today is a lively cultural, industrial and financial center. It was named a European Youth Capital in 2019, and European Capital of Culture in 2021 - the first non-EU city to receive this honor.
We’re staying right in the middle of town. We oriented with a walking tour before heading out on our own.
Freedom Square is anchored by the Catholic Church of the Name of Mary on one end, and City Hall opposite. An energetic statue of former mayor and political leader Svetozar Miletic striding across the square was made by Ivan Mestrovic.
We headed across the Danube to the Petrovaradin Fortress. It was constructed by slave labor between 1692-1780. Looming over Novi Sad, this is the second largest fortress in Europe, occupying 300 acres. It has nearly 10 miles and 4 levels of creepy underground, unlit tunnels. Parts of the tunnels can be visited by escorted tour, but not during the limited time we had there this afternoon.
The size is best appreciated from the fortress itself rather than below. The EXIT banner refers to an annual music festival that takes place on the fortress grounds each July.
We climbed over 22 stories up to the landmark clock tower. Like the clock tower built by the Sultan in Montenegro, the size of the hands are reversed. It’s a little disorienting to try to figure the time, but it was useful for distant town, farmers or fishermen to tell the time.
A paved walk encircles the whole palace, offering great views of the Danube and Novi Sad.
We walked back to town with two other couples from our group, and stopped, per Srdjan’s recommendation, for ice cream at the Black Sheep. I had pear and cherry with chocolate chops. He was right - it was excellent.
(I found a friend at the place we had lunch.)
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