2024 Northwest Passage: Day 8 Herschel Island

August 26 - Monday

Herschel Island or Qikiqtaruk Territorial Park lies 3 miles north of the Yukon Territories coastline and 45 miles from Alaska. 

There is archeological evidence of human habitation 1,000 years ago. 

From 1896-1906 hundreds of American whalers and some of their families would winter here while waiting for the sea ice to thaw so they could pursue their prey, bowhead whales. They had quite the social life with balls, theatrical performances, and sport leagues as they waited out the winter. But danger lurked nearby. One year seven baseball players died when caught in a sudden whiteout blizzard. 

Amundsen and crew spent their third winter here during their Northwest Passage transit. 

Americans abandoned the island after 1907 when petroleum and steel springs replaced whale oil and baleen (a flexible material used in whalebone corsets) The Inuit residents left over the next several decades, but still visit the island for cultural ceremonies and to educate their youth. 

This year, the whaling site opened in April via snowmobile access from the mainland. The sea ice broke up in mid-June. During the frozen stage, animals like caribou, grizzly bears, and arctic and red foxes cross between the mainland and the island. 

In the few years since cruise ships began attempting the Northwest Passage, they’ve allowed three cruise ships to visit each year. This year they are testing the ability of the site to handle more visitors and eight ships will be visiting. Note: these are expedition ships with 300 passengers, not mega cruise ships with 10 or 15 times as many guests. The last one is two days after us, and then the site will close down until next year. The staff will leave via seaplane when weather conditions are favorable. 

Palisade smokehouse, being used by park staff to dry fish. 

One of three outhouses, and an abandoned building. 

Scientists project that the remnants of Inuit sites and American structures along the coastline will disappear under the sea within the next 50 years. Already, the site we visited has standing water throughout the settlement, with driftwood scattered everywhere. Only two years ago, the area where we landed had been above the water line. The permafrost is thawing, land uplifting, and graves are coming to the surface. Soon it will all be gone.