September 1 - Sunday
The Nattilik Hamlet of Gjoa Haven (Uqsuqtuuq) is named after Amundsen’s ship, the Gjoa. He and his crew spent two winters here during his Northwest Passage crossing. The time spent living with and learning from the Inuit proved invaluable for his 1911 race to the South Pole.
The town, population around 1,350, is on the southern coast of King William island.
At first we thought the houses were supported by frames to raise them above tidal surges, but we saw this construction throughout town. It’s an effective way to carve out additional useful land for homes, but most importantly raising the homes above the ground spares warming the permafrost below.
The Nattilik Heritage Centre houses a small museum and gift shop with local crafts.
The HMS Erebus, one of the lost ships from the disastrous Franklin expedition ships, the HMS Erebus, was discovered nearby 10 years ago. The ship had last been seen when abandoned 166 years earlier, and had been the object of dozens of searches sent to discover its fate. It turned out that the Inuit knew, by oral tradition, all along. No one had thought to ask them.
Another Amundsen bust, identical to the one in Nome.
Brightly colored houses along sandy streets
The village welcomed us to a delightful cultural show and cookout at their community center.
I got tired just watching the children’s high energy square dancing troupe (and my face hurt from smiling). A live band played while the kids clogged continuously through reels, dancing in the round and in pairs. I wish I could share a video in this blog.
There were demonstrations of throat singing and Inuit games.
Walking back towards the ship, we noticed a winter vehicle in summer storage. I’m curious as to how they get it up there, or down!
Sailing away, a magical sky.
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