2019 Cyprus - Day 6 Kolossi Castle & Ancient Kourion

Our room here has a little balcony hanging over the valley below. It's much cooler here in the mountains, which has been much appreciated after the last two weeks.

We had an amazingly huge breakfast served up today. 

There was easily 2 to 3 pounds of cheese on the plate. All this showed up after we ate some melon and banana, and before they brought toast, omelets, a selection of cold cuts, butter and jam. We did our best, packed a couple of sandwiches for lunch and hoped no one was offended by how much food we left behind.

Greg and our GPS valiantly navigated as we wound our way down from the mountains towards the south-central coast of Cyprus. It's not a long drive, but we were working with an unknown regarding the times our destinations would be open today - because we weren't sure what time zone they'd be in.

There was a catch to the treaty which created the Republic of Cyprus in 1960. The British retained about 3% of the island as sovereign territory. The two UK Sovereign Base Areas (SBAs) were seen by the British as too valuable to give up. Initially they provided a strategic outpost to protect the Suez Canal, and after escalation of the Cold War, as protection for NATO’s southern flank. The bases in Cyprus have also served as launching sites to hot spots in the middle east. Although the Cold War is ostensibly over, there are Russian bases only 40 miles away in Syria.

Both of our destinations for today (Kolossi Castle and Ancient Kourion) lie within the borders of the southern British base, Akrotiri Sovereign Base Area. And therefore, they operate under GMT, aka British time. And that timezone is 2 hours earlier than Cyprus time. Or so we thought. Apparently some sections within the SBAs are under local management, so all is not clear.

 

Our first stop was Kolossi Castle. This charming little Crusader castle is strategically located on land given to the Knights of the Order of John of Jerusalem in 1210. The Knights Templar took control of the castle a century later, but returned it to the former owners after only 7 years. The principal structure, a 3-story keep surrounded by a walled courtyard (or bailey), was built in 1454. You cross the drawbridge and climb a spiral staircase to the battlements crowning the keep. The commanding views from the top showcase the strategic importance of the castle. 

There were large side-by-side rooms on the two main floors, the floors arranged at right angles to each other.

The surrounding area was known for producing sugar and the world’s oldest commercially produced wine. Commandaria , a sweet dessert wine, is still available today. Richard the Lionheart is said to have toasted his bride and guests with it at his wedding feast at nearby Limassal Castle in 1191, declaring it “The wine of kings and the king of wines.” The Knights of St. John processed sugar cane into sugar and Commandaria at Kolossi. 

A large outbuilding (the tunnel-like building above) at the edge of the castle grounds was used to process cane. It was powered by an aqueduct (wall in the left foreground) that remains in excellent condition.

We were ready to head to our second destination when I saw this sign, so we had to take a small detour.

This monastery was founded in 327 AD and patronized by St. Helena, the mother of Constantine. Legend has it that when it was being constructed the area was overrun with poisonous snakes. A shipment of cats was brought in to deal with the snakes.

St. Nicolas

And the cats

The cats were much friendlier than this little nun who glared at us and kept a careful eye on Greg while he looked at the merch.

Only a few miles from Kolossi Castle are the ruins of Ancient Kourion. Its strategic position high on a coastal bluff has been occupied since the Late Stone Age. Greek settlers established the first permanent settlement around the 12th century BC, and the usual cast of characters followed: Egyptians, Assyrians, Persians, Romans. Architectural remnants of some cultures remain, while others have been confirmed by burial sites and other artifacts. Over the centuries, earthquakes leveled buildings; they were repeatedly rebuilt. 

Kourion sat undisturbed through the centuries until the 1820s when it was identified by an Italian explorer. Since then, it was been looted, dug up and finally systematically and scientifically excavated. Today the site is sprawling and impressive. There is a theatre, mosaics, sophisticated baths, a family palace, aqueducts, palaces, the basilica, and ruins of homes. 

By the 5th century, Kourion was a bishopric with a large Christian basilica. The ruins of the church and its surrounding buildings show a large complex supporting the church and its staff. Around 650 A.D., the acropolis was destroyed by Arab pirates. Man accomplished what the recurring earthquakes had been unable to do. The bishopric was moved inland and Kourion was essentially abandoned.

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Two miles from the main Kourion excavations lies an extensive ancillary site, the Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates. Dedicated to use by wealthy and influential members of a thriving cult of Apollo, this area includes a sports arena and baths for athletes, a 6000 seat stadium, a temple to Apollo, and priest quarters. 

Remains of the Temple of Apollo and nearby ruins

Most of the Kourion site has not been restored, so there is potential for additional excavations and restorations. We found Kourion to be a lot more interesting than Salamis. 

Tonight we are staying in Limassol (Lemosos), a popular tourist beach destination. There is a castle, of course, in the old harbor area and narrow medieval streets.