Today is Waitangi Day, a New Zealand national holiday commemorating the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1849. The treaty was an agreement towards British sovereignty between representatives of Britain and indigenous Maori chiefs, and is considered a founding document of the new nation.
We drove southeast from Mt. Cook National Park to Dunedin, transitioning from the southern Alps to rolling hills to pastureland along the ocean. We stopped at the quirky town of Oamaru. It’s the self-proclaimed steampunk capital of New Zealand. (I had to look it up - “a sub genre of science fiction that incorporates retro futuristic technology…inspired by 19th-century industrial steam-powered machinery”)
The town has preserved a Victorian district, several blocks of original buildings. The facades open to warehouse and graineries that have been converted to dozens of shops, craft stores, nano breweries, etc.
Two penguin colonies were nearby. The little blue, or fairy, penguins, return like clockwork to their dens at dusk. But we couldn’t stick around until 8:45 pm to watch their parade. We decided to try the Bushy Beach colony of yellow-eyed penguins instead. The yellow-eyed penguins, the rarest penguin species in the world, are native to New Zealand. They live in dense coastal forests, and are so shy that they won’t return to their nests if they see or hear people on the beach. The beach itself is closed except for 9 - 3, but there are blinds built on the cliffs to watch for them.
We went to beach at 2 pm, and were watching sea lions when we spotted a molting chick waiting in the woods for its parents to return.
We were far away - didn’t want to disturb it. And that’s the extent of penguin viewing today.
Thirty minutes south of Oamaru are the intriguing Moeraki Boulders. The giant spherical stone boulders were formed 60 million years ago from prehistoric marine mud that was buried in the cliffs. Circulating groundwater containing calcite formed a cement-like substance around shell fragments or pebbles. The boulders grew as the process continued for eons. Cracks were filled by calcite crystals, creating patterns on the otherwise smooth surfaces. As the cliffs eroded, the spheres rolled out. The boulders are up to 2 meters in diameter and weigh up to several tons. About 30 are scattered along a few hundred feet of beachfront.
Thirty minutes south of Oamaru are the intriguing Moeraki Boulders. The giant spherical stone boulders were formed 60 million years ago from prehistoric marine mud that was buried in the cliffs. Circulating groundwater containing calcite formed a cement-like substance around shell fragments or pebbles. The boulders grew as the process continued for eons. Cracks were filled by calcite crystals, creating patterns on the otherwise smooth surfaces. As the cliffs eroded, the spheres rolled out. The boulders are up to 2 meters in diameter and weigh up to several tons. About 30 are scattered along a few hundred feet of beachfront.
The tide was coming in, submerging their lower halves.
They break into honeycombed pieces.
We got into Dunedin and immediately headed for Dog with Two Tails, a highly recommended restaurant. The restaurant turned out to be permanently closed. The highlight was parking on this street, from which we walked to the former restaurant. Greg was more unnerved than I was, though it did feel like the car might roll over.
Day 2 - We did laundry at the hotel this morning, then headed to the oldest geocache in New Zealand. After a successful find, we hiked up to Dunedin Botanical Gardens for another round of caches. They have an aviary, which focuses on rehabilitation for injured native birds, and breeding program for native parrots, parakeets and other birds. The breeding birds are housed so that their young do not see or interact with people, so that they can be safely released to a nearby ecosanctuary.
We took a nature cruise on the MV Monarch, a 70-year old former fishing vessel which has been refitted to take passengers to see wildlife and scenery near Otago harbor. The ship provided good binoculars, big warm coats, and hot beverages.
We took a nature cruise on the MV Monarch, a 70-year old former fishing vessel which has been refitted to take passengers to see wildlife and scenery near Otago harbor. The ship provided good binoculars, big warm coats, and hot beverages.
The Otago peninsula is part of an extinct volcano, stretching about 22 km northeast from Dunedin.
The tip of the peninsula is home to a breeding colony of Northest Royal Albatross. With a wingspan of almost 10 feet, they are impressive both from a distance and up close. A couple are gliding above the lighthouse above.
Harbor view towards the Pacific.
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