Queenstown is a lovely little city, pop. 20,000, that sits on the shore of yet another cobalt blue lake, Lake Wakatipu. It hosts 3 million visitors a year, with the district population tripling on an average peak summer day. We encountered our first real NZ traffic jam here, though the drivers were unfailingly polite in letting people merge, turn across traffic, etc. Parking is also a bit of a challenge (I had to parallel park our jeep for the first time - on the “wrong” side of the road on a very steep hill.)
We took a boat tour on the TSS Earnslaw steamship, a 121 year old coal-fired passenger steamship. It operates with twin locomotive-type boilers. There’s a three-story caged opening in the center from which you can watch the engine room, as the crew feeds the furnaces, and pistons, cranks and belts work away.
Low cloud cover precluded fine views of the surrounding mountains, but we had other nature shows to watch.
A squall across the lake, accented with a very low rainbow.
And further along, another rainbow.
We disembarked at the Walter Peak High Country Farm, where we enjoyed (read: overate) a huge barbecue meal, walked around the grounds and saw a sheep-shearing and herding demonstration. Then back on the boat to return to Queensland.
These recently shorn sheets were hyper aware of anyone approaching and skedaddled if one got too close. Fortunately, they have to endure shearing only once a year.
These recently shorn sheets were hyper aware of anyone approaching and skedaddled if one got too close. Fortunately, they have to endure shearing only once a year.
Day 2 - To Arrowtown and Glenorchy
Arrowtown was a booming gold rush town in the mid-1800s. Instead of decaying into a ghost town like most of these boom towns, it somehow held on and is today a quaint little town with preserved buildings lining its main street. A community of Chinese settlers lived on the edge of town, mostly men from the province of Guangdong who were hoping to earn enough money to return to China and buy a piece of land there to homestead. There are a few buildings remaining from this settlement, and several interpretive signs in Mandarin and English talking about the lives and living conditions of these immigrants.
We came to Arrowtown primarily to rent mountain bikes and ride the Arrow River Bridges Trail. It’s a scenic trail alongside the deepening gorge of the river, crossing several suspension bridges until it ends at the Kwarau Suspension Bridge. We realized early on why most bikers we saw had e-bikes, and why they recommend 2-3 hours for a one-way 8.25 mile trip. We stuck it out and both we and our bikes made it round trip only a little worse for wear in 2.5 hr.
Greg crossing the first suspension bridge.
Looking down into the gorge, same bridge.
Me on another bridge
We passed mountains and vineyards, goats and alpacas and sheep. There’s a trail extension to some vineyards - we’d probably still be walking back if we’d done any wine tasting. The steep gravel sections and the areas without guardrails were intimidating enough without alcohol. Also, the front and rear brakes were reverse sides from US standards.
The Kawarau Suspension Bridge opened in 1880 to great fanfare, solving a big problem for travelers and shippers who needed to cross the Arrow River. It closed in 1963 when a steel beam bridge opened upriver. Twenty-five years later, an entrepreneur requested permission to open the first commercial bungee jumping site. My sister jumped here 35 years ago. The concession is still going strong.
The Arrow River gorge from the bungee bridge.
If you can find the bridge in this picture, you may be able to spot Greg.
We left Arrowtown to drive about an hour to Glenorchy. The drive came highly recommended, apparently one of the top ten scenic drives in the world. It’s not for people who get carsick easily, but as that’s not a problem for us, it was pretty fun to drive. It was a gorgeous road on a gorgeous day. Glenorchy is the gateway to Titiea/Mount Aspiring National Park and great hikes for all levels of ability. The area has been used is several films, including the LOTR trilogy. Plus, we found ice cream there!
I remember that beautiful drive fondly!
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