Wednesday, June 14, 2017

2017 Himalayas - Bhutan Day 2: Tashicho Dzong, Buddha & National Memorial Stupa

Today (June 9) is the 15th day in the 4th lunar month in the Tibetan Buddhist calendar, which commemorates Parinirvana, the date that the Buddha attained enlightenment. Kinga revised our itinerary so that we would visit Tashicho Dzong today as there could be special ceremonies to commemorate this major holiday.

We started the morning with a presentation from Mr. Ugyen Dorji, who is the leader (Secretary General) of the minority party and a former MP of the General Assembly of Bhutan. In his current position, he advises MPs in his party, drafts communications and helps craft his party's strategy.

 

He reviewed the history of Bhutan from prehistory to today and explained how their government began transitioning from 100 years as a monarchy to a democracy just 10 years ago. Bhutan currently has a bicameral parliament and gender neutral laws. There are age limits on representatives.

Bhutan became a member of the United Nations in 1971 and maintains a diplomatic mission in New York City. They have established diplomatic relations with 21 countries, especially those of similar size such as the Scandinavian countries. They do not have diplomatic relationships, however, with the big five: US, China, England, France and Russia.

And then we were off to Tashicho Dzong. The original Dzong was built in 1216 and is now home to several governmental offices as well as a Buddhist monastery. Because today was the commemorative day of Parinirvana, a huge Thangka covered the entire facade of a building. Throngs of Bhutanese in their finest clothing moved in orderly lines past the embroidered hanging, while others queued up to visit the temple or other shrines where relics were displayed.

 

 

 

Shoes are removed before one enters the shrines.
 

Many people brought offerings to lay before the applique. They will later be collected by the monks and distributed to the needy.

 

 

We visited the main temple in the complex, where rows of monks were chanting quietly together. A magnificent gilded Buddha of compassion held center stage, with several smaller Buddhas flanking it and at side altars. 

We were outside wandering the grounds, purple watching and absorbing the atmosphere when a stir went through the crowd. The king had arrived. We saw him carry the young Crown Prince up the stairs to enter the temple from the side, followed by the queen and their entourage. And then the crowd resumed their activities as if this is an everyday occurrence. Perhaps for them, it is.

 

On our way to lunch, a line of black Mercedes cars swept past and turned into the small parking lot of our destination restaurant. It was the assistant prime minister of Thailand and his entourage. They had the buffet; we were served.

We were taken to see one of the largest sitting Buddhas  in the world which is at a complex being built on a hill a few miles outside of Thimphu. The statue is 169 feet tall and has been funded by a rich woman in Singapore and her wealthy friends. It's a good way to rack up lots of karma. Construction started in 2006 and is still underway.

 

 

 

While the statute complex and temple below it were beautiful, I felt none of the sense of tradition, wonder and reverence that permeated the sacred pilgrimage sites we saw in Tibet and Nepal. It felt too new and artificial.  

Our final destination was the Memorial Stupa which was started under the third king of Bhutan, and completed in his honor after his untimely death at age 44.

 

 

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