2017 Himalayas - Bhutan Day 5: Tiger's Nest!

Today was the long-anticipated trek to Tiger's Nest, an ancient monastery perched impossibly on a sheer cliffside. Our briefing last night was a sobering reality check, focused on the hike's 2,200 ft altitude change to 10,400 ft and the 750 uneven stone steps at the end if the climb. After (surreptitiously) assessing our capabilities over the previous few days, Kinga predicted that only 3 or 4 of us would make it all the way to the monastery. 

The Tatkshang Monastery (originally built in 1694) is on the spot where, in the 8th century, Guru Rinpoche (also known as Padmasambhava, who helped bring Buddhism to Tibet at the invitation of the king who had married a Buddhist Nepalese princess) flew on the back of a tigress to subdue a malignant Bon deity, and then mediated in a cave for 4 months. It is a sacred spot which practitioners of Tibetan Buddhism try to visit (although there is no requirement to do so) at least once in their lifetime. Kinga, our guide, has made the long walk over 100 times.

 

We got our first glimpse of the Tiger's Nest (high on the center mountain below) from the trailhead and were on our way by 8:30 AM. After the talk last night, the three of our group of 13 elected to stay wait at the bottom.

 

 

We had an excellent day for a hike, cloudy, 60s and overcast. We shared our first hour on the trail with horses, which local farmers rent out to carry the less ambitious or capable pilgrims to the Tea House, the halfway point. A shaggy foal dutifully followed her mother up and down the steep slopes, training for future employment.

 

At the Tea House, we enjoyed the magical views and a complimentary cup of coffee and biscuits served by welcoming staff. There were also, to our surprise, quite decent flush toilets. In short, everything we needed to set off refreshed on the second half of our trek.  

 

 

 

Four of us (Susan, Vincent, Bruce and me) continued with Kinga towards the Tiger's Nest, Elaine and Karen later followed at their own pace up to the view point, and the other four headed back to the parking lot with Sanjay. The stunning views got better and better as we climbed.

Pilgrims on the trail.

 

A Lama sat near the first viewpoint.

 

 

With Kinga 

 

We scrambled down and up the infamous 750 steps, crossing the bridge at the base of the waterfall before clambering up to the monastery. 

 

 

 

Kinga collected our hiking poles, backpacks, cameras, shoes and cellphones, put them in a locker and tied it shut with a piece of rope. Our Bhutan visas were checked by security, and we proceeded up a steep set of high stone stairs. In stocking feet, Kinga took us into four small temples built into and on the cliffside. In one, a small golden door guarded the cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated for several months after defeating the demon. The door is only opened once or twice each year. I quietly sat crosslegged on the floor in two of the temples, feet respectfully tucked so that the soles did not face the Buddha. The monastery is a historic, reflective place. So different than the Golden Buddha visited a few days earlier near Thimphu.

Kinga was right: with Sue, me, Vincent & Bruce.

 

We gathered our thoughts and our belongings before our return trip...which involved all those stairs back up before the long journey down to our bus. We were happy to meet Elaine and Karen waiting at the top of the steps near the first viewpoint.

We spotted a pair of grey langurs, which Kinga said was a rare and auspicious event.

 

It started to rain as we passed the Tea House and again, harder, as we neared the parking lot. But the rain felt good and we were a happy, tired bunch as we climbed into our bus to return to the hotel. The fitbit reported a good day's walk, with 238 flights of vertical club and 10 miles walked. Elaine and I treated ourselves to a massage back at the hotel. Great end to a memorable day!