This morning we left our lovely mountain retreat and bounced our way back to Kathmandu. Before we left, I was happy to see another red-billed blue magpie. Good morning karma!
We spent the morning visiting Kathmandu Hanuman Dhoka in the old part of the city. It epitomizes the religious and cultural life of the people. It includes a 16th century palace and many temples and narrow alleyways. It is the UNESCO site most damaged in the 2015 earthquake.
"Nepalese spaghetti"
Old Kathmandu
Again, I experienced a sense of past grander and the poignant loss for the buildings that were heavily damaged or destroyed. The US and China are among the nations helping to restore the ruins.
The top three stories of this palace building have collapsed.
We visited the home of Kumari, the Living Goddess. Kumari an incarnation of the goddess Parvati, the wife of Shiva and mother of Ganesh. For the last 250 years, a young girl of 4 or 5 is selected from a pure Buddhist family. She must meet strict physical standards, no blemishes, scars, beautiful complexion. She is then required to stay overnight in a specific temple by herself. If she passes this test, as she should not be afraid if she is the goddess, she is appointed the Living Goddess. She moves to the home of the Living Goddess where she lives until she reaches puberty, at which time a new Goddess is identified.
Peacock window at home of the Living Goddess
Guardian lion at her home
The Kumari leaves her home for ceremonies 13 times a year. Her feet are not allowed to touch the ground. Her family may visit her, and she is educated by teachers who come to her.
As we stood in the courtyard of her home listening to Sanjay tell us about the Kumari, we were suddenly told to put all cameras away. Then the Kumari appeared at a high window and gazed serenely at the silent gathering below. After less than a minute, she backed away from the window. And that was that. It was an unexpected and rare blessing.
In the courtyard of her home.
We continued to tour the world heritage site. This gentleman, waving the Nepalese flag (the only non-rectangular national flag), became famous when traveling around Nepal after the earthquake, raising morale with his optimism and flag.
Temples
Shrine
The world famous Nepalese gurkha are part of the British army and serve as elite forces around the world. This cute good natured soldier was guarding the old palace. You can try tell he is wearing the old traditional uniform by his bright yellow socks.
After lunch, the monsoon rains finally arrived. It rained heavily for a short while, then lightened as we climbed the steps to Swayambhunath, the oldest buddhist stupa (place of meditation). It was established over 2,500 years ago. Another UNESCO world heritage site, it is also known as the Monkey Temple because of the rhesus monkeys which live on the grounds. (The monkeys look pretty ragged and nasty with mangy fur, as they eat unhealthy treats from well-meaning humans and end up with diabetes and other diseases from poor nutrition.)
The stupa was another spiritual encounter. This part of the world is full of holy places.
This Buddha was in a monastery at the shrine, and although the rest of the building was destroyed, it was not damaged in the earthquake.
I don't know if some secret alarm went off or something, but the monkeys suddenly all hightailed it to an adjacent park where they sleep. And I do mean hightailed.
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