2022 Nordic Seas - Day 14 Akureyri, Iceland

Today we are in Iceland, and another time zone. Akureyri is deep in the Eyjafjordur, one of the longest fjords in Iceland. With a population of 19,000, it’s the largest municipality outside the population centers in southwest Iceland, and has been nicknamed the Capital of North Iceland. From the Icelandic Sagas and Book of Settlements, it’s known that the area was first settled in the 9th century, but a municipal charter wasn’t granted until 1786. 

We woke to a cloudless sky. The captain mentioned that the Norse Gods must be with us. Greg congratulated me on my promotion to goddess.

Perched on the edge of the fjord, the settlement could only expand up the side of the mountain.

Akureyri sits in north-central Iceland, not far from the Arctic Circle. meaning 6 months of little sunlight and crippling storms that isolate the town from much of the rest of Iceland.  Seasonal affective disorder and depression can be a real problem here. Although some attribute Iceland’s high literacy rate to the months spent indoors, it’s still a long haul to spring. People who can afford to travel often vacation in the winter to get a break from the long nights. Financial instability can make these needed-breaks impossible. After Iceland’s financial crash in 2008, the town decided to boost its morale by placing glowing hearts in their traffic lights. A former mayor explained that the hearts were installed to “remind the citizens what really mattered.” When first spotted, they catch you by surprise. They certainly make one stop and smile at intersections. 

We took a long walk along the fjord to the Nonni Museum on the outskirts of Akureyri. (That is not our ship)

Jesuit priest Pastor Jon Sveinsson lived in this house as a child. After his father died, his mother struggled to support her 4 children. A year later, at age 12, Nonni was offered the chance to attend a Catholic school in France. His adventures on his journey there inspired the first of his twelve  “Nonni” children’s books. Charming signposts marked the way to the museum. 

While we were there, Greg and I decided to renew our vows. 

Somewhat improbably, Akureyri has a lovely botanical gardens featuring plants and flowers from such diverse places as the Italian Dolomites and North America. A greenhouse is used to start annuals in March and perennials in April. The growing season arrives in June. The greenhouse has automated roof windows that keep the greenhouse at 43-54 degrees during the winter. The wooded gardens are quite nice, free and open year-round.

Bees at work

The parish of this pretty little Catholic church covers the entire northern part of Iceland. It’s part of the Diocese of Reykjavik, which (according to a flyer in the vestibule)  is comprised of 7 mostly similar widespread parishes, 17 priests and 38 nuns. 

The much grander Lutheran Akureyri Church, or Akureyrakirkja, was consecrated in 1940. It has a 3200-pipe organ, an 1863 altarpiece, British designed stained glass windows and an Italian marble baptismal font.