Iceland has a population of about 375,000. A third live in Reykjavik proper, and 80% in the area around the capital. We drove out of the city on a fine 4-lane divided highway, new since my last visit. As we passed two large boulders just off the highway, our driver pointed out an example of the superstitious nature of the Icelandic people. These particular boulders were suspected of harboring elves (who many Icelanders believe live beneath rocks.) The highway was diverted several meters to spare the boulders - and the elves.
We drove about an hour to Thingvellir National Park, a historic and geological monument. The American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet here. It’s an active volcanic area. The plates are separating at the rate of 2 cm (8/10 of an inch) per year. That’s about 80 feet since Iceland was first settled, according to the sagas, around 874 AD. The fissure is dark and dramatic, and recognizable as a location used in filming The Game of Thrones.
The American plate on left; Eurasian on right.
Signs of cooling lava in the hills over the fissure.
Thingvellir is also the location where the first Icelandic assembly, or parliament met in 930 AD. The practice continued until 1798. The parliament would meet for two weeks each year, codifying laws and settling disputes. The remnants of around 50 booths built from stone and turf, can still be seen. As the floor of the rift valley has sunk by 11-14 feet since the first assembly meeting, it’s believed that remains from 10th century gatherings lie underground.
Again, American plate is on the left; the Eurasian on the right.
The plains on the Eurasian side of the fissure where remains of the stone booths can be found.
The biggest change since I first came here is the presence of a large visitor center with food, kitschy gifts and toilets. Not to mention the huge parking lots with rows of large and small tourist buses. And the path through the fissure itself - a wide gravel accessible route. I found a vintage postcard of Thingvellir before all of these “improvements.” This, with the exception of the apparent fall colors, is what it looked like during my previous visit:
Our next stop was the Geysir geothermal area. There are active geothermal areas across Iceland; they provide hot water and heat to homes and swimming areas. This is the one the tourists flock to.
The little house with steam emitting from its chimney is a prop about 5 feet long. Steam rises from pools and fissures throughout the area.
The great Geysir (pronounced Gay-zer in Iceland) from which all geysers get their name, is currently dormant. Along with Yellowstone’s Old Faithful, it’s the most famous geyser in the world. Foreigners would travel to Iceland specifically to see it erupt. Some would camp in the area for days waiting for Geysir to erupt up to 558 feet in the air. (Old Faithful, by comparison, is up to 184 feet.) Loud thumps proceed the eruption. In December 2008 after the last big earthquake in December 2008, people wandering nearby were fortunately warned by a passing tour guide when the thumps commenced.
Until 1992, Geysir was coaxed to erupt for special events, such as royal visitors or a national holiday weekend. This was done by dumping up to 100 lbs of soap into the basin.
When I was last here, the geothermal area sat in farmland. (The area was finally protected in June 2018.) There were no ropes or barriers - just little signs warning that the water was boiling temperature and to be careful where you walked. Geysir was occasionally spontaneously active, but we were told it was highly unlikely we’d witness it.
Strokkur, however, is a different story. This (comparatively) small geyser erupts every 4 to 8 minutes. Today a large rope barrier surrounds it, but in the 1980s, I stood alone just a few feet away and watched it cycle through several eruptions. It almost seems to breathe as the water levels pulsate and then drop just before it erupts. It can be a single or double eruption, tall (up to 130 feet) short, or both. It’s fascinating to watch.
Not so visible against a grey sky, but still fun to watch.
We had lunch in the cafeteria/gift shop/etc across the street. It was expensive, like everything in a country where so many things must be imported. And quirky. For some reason there was a prominent Icelandic wrestling theme.
Rows of mounted televisions lined the walls like a Best Buy, playing a loop of jerky vintage films of old-timey wrestlers in their little outfits - which can be seen in the above photo collage in the middle row, second from right. They pranced around demonstrating throws and politely and abruptly shaking hands afterwards. It was a little odd.
Next and final stop in the Golden Circle was the beautiful Gollfuss waterfall. It’s only a few minutes drive from the geothermal area, but early visitors to Geysir went by-and-large only to Thingvellir and the geothermal area. Again, there was an impressive visitors center with all the amenities.
And row after row of buses.
The Hvita River twists its way through two spectacular stages of 36 and 69 feet before an abrupt turn into a 105 foot crevice flowing perpendicular to the river above the falls.
For some reason, Gullfoss always photographs like a slice of meringue pie - but doesn’t give that impression in person. It’s noisy and on sunny days, is capped by a rainbow that forms in its mist. Some brave souls, perhaps because they were already pretty much soaked from the rain, ventured out to the viewpoint between the two drops in the falls.
Our final stop was at the Kerio volcanic crater lake. It’s one of several volcanic lake in Iceland’s Western Volcanic Zone, which was created as the land moved over a localized hotspot. Its 3,000 year old caldera is still intact, made of striking red volcanic rock. The lake is an intense aquamarine due to minerals in the soil. We climbed off the bus into driving pellets of rain, climbed up the edge of the crater, and quickly picked a promising spot for a photo. Greg shielded the phone to keep the lens dry. A quick snap, preview check, and back to the little bus. (A small ticket office is here, but none of the big amenities of the three Golden Circle sites.)
Our final stop was at the Kerio volcanic crater lake. It’s one of several volcanic lake in Iceland’s Western Volcanic Zone, which was created as the land moved over a localized hotspot. Its 3,000 year old caldera is still intact, made of striking red volcanic rock. The lake is an intense aquamarine due to minerals in the soil. We climbed off the bus into driving pellets of rain, climbed up the edge of the crater, and quickly picked a promising spot for a photo. Greg shielded the phone to keep the lens dry. A quick snap, preview check, and back to the little bus. (A small ticket office is here, but none of the big amenities of the three Golden Circle sites.)
We spent about 8 rainy hours on the tour. It was a good way to spend the day; we would not have wanted to be outdoors all day anyway. With our rain gear and shelter in the minibus, all was well.
And then, from the ship, the sun peeked out from somewhere for just a few minutes.
No comments:
Post a Comment