We awoke at the Yalour Islands, a low-lying archipelago spread out over 1.5 miles. They are surrounded by mountains, spilling glaciers into the sea.
The islands are home to an Adélie penguin colony, and are a summer habitat of orcas who forage (sorry, KP) on the penguins.
The air and water temperatures were around 30 F. This little disintegrating iceberg still has an affinity for its parts.
Our boat group is the Cape Petrols. Today we were in the latter half of excursion groups, so had a leisurely breakfast before suiting up for our first zodiac scenic cruising.
The Adélie penguins gathered in high places - safer from leopard seals and orcas, but pretty accessible to hungry skuas looking for eggs and chicks.
When I first saw this photo, I couldn’t figure out what that long stick-like thing is. It looked like a twig, or if someone’s cross-county ski had washed ashore. But on closer inspection:
Not a flying seal, but a snow petrol.
And then the weather turned, quickly and dramatically. The wind picked up and small waves of water and ice crystals started crashing over the bow. I was in the front, and discovered that water can indeed get through two pairs of snow and rain pants. (And I definitely took the wrong pair of gloves this morning.) Only my socks stayed dry.
So everything got spread out on the bathroom floor, which is heated but only for a set cycle. I hoped everything would dry before (1) the afternoon landing and (2) the overnight camping experience.
We cruised northeast through the beautiful and narrow Lemaire Channel. Nicknamed “Kodak Gap” for its beauty, the 7 mile channel is flanked by 1,200 meter (nearly 4,000 ft) cliffs heavy with snow. Icebergs and sea ice sometime make the channel impassable.
And then we passed through the Gerlache Strait, just as beautiful (maybe because the morning storm was fading).
We anchored off of Damoy Point, site of a Gentoo penguin colony and two historic field huts. The Argentinian one is, I think, still in use. The 1973 British hut is maintained as a historical monument. It’s like a time capsule: appliances, scientific equipment, canned goods, calendars and bunks are all preserved as they were in 1993. Funny how much things are changed in only 30 years!
Mark went ashore early with the snowshoe group, while I (still fussing over my Very Wet clothes) elected to do the standard landing. The expedition team had carved steps up from the landing site, and stomped out a trail. The snow is deep enough that, without the trail, you could sink to your knees or hips, and find it difficult to get back up.
The gentoo penguins have arrived, but it’s a little early for the mating season (a few precocious ones stood out). They will wait for the snow to melt so they can pick just the right pebbles to construct their nests. They’ve already started working on their penguin highways. One thing about seeing them this early in the season - no fishy odor! They are still amusing, calling out to each other with their distinctive sound. It starts out with a Chewbacca roar and ends with a donkey-like bray or two.
Mark’s adventure
Damoy Point
Tonight we’ll be sleeping (or at least spending the night in a tent) ashore. I’ll save the details for tomorrow.
Gorgeous! Such stunning scenery, and spacious room with a view.
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