Wednesday, November 8, 2023

2023 Return to Antarctica - Day 8 Deception Island

Today was our favorite stop so far. Deception Island in the South Shetland Islands is actually the flooded cone of an active volcano. A year-round Argentine base operated there until the eruptions of 1967-70. Since then, it’s operated as a summer base. Volcanic activity is monitored year round, which we appreciate as we crossed the 15 km caldera today.

The entrance is through a narrow channel called Neptune’s Bellows. It was named over 200 years ago by American sealers, after the ferocious winds which funnel through the opening into the caldera.


We landed first at Whalers’ Bay, just to the right of the entrance. A black cinder beach lined the shore, which made for an easy wet landing. A few Gentoo penguins porpoised along the edge, occasionally popping on land to check us out with an air of studied indifference.



(Except for this guy.)

Long a whaling processing center, rusting artifacts stand as hulking reminders of the whaling industry. 




Cape petrols

A notch in the caldera wall called Neptune’s Window offered views both in and outside the crater.







Mark had been considering taking the Polar Plunge since we first learned about it. The water here in the caldera is a little warmer than in the open ocean, due to the continuing geothermal activity far below. But the term “warmer” is relative. Instead of around 30 degrees (sea water freezes at a lower temperature), it’s more like a balmy 34 degrees. He watched a couple of other brave souls venture in, and decided to go for it. 


He went fully underwater. When asked how the water was, he said, “Salty.”  A braver soul than me. 

We cruised about 15 km to Telefon Bay at the northern edge of the caldera. This was the area that erupted 55 years ago, so the newest part of Deception Island. We climbed to the top of a lookout. It was windy, with 40 mph gusts; my hiking poles kept blowing straight out. The views were worth it.

From the top. You can see orange-jacketed people from our ship climbing up the slope. In the snow, middle left, are people headed along the shore in the opposite direction.


And the view from below, back towards people at the top of our climb

Except for wind, we had an exceptional day for landings. No sleet or snow, some clear skies, even a little sun. A storm rolled in as we sailed away. 














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