We set off for our camping adventure at Damoy Point around 9 last night. Everyone was issued a large dry bag containing a sleeping bag and camping mat as we headed for the zodiacs. Plastic toboggans holding the tents and foam insulating mats were already stashed on shore for us to drag to our tent sites.
It was windy and sleeting, but everyone managed to get their tents up. Mark did the lion’s share for us. Putting up a tent in heavy waterproof gloves was a fun challenge. The expedition team, in a fraction of the time it took us to get set up, had assembled an Amundsen tent, a replica of those used by his polar expedition 112 years ago. They gathered us around their tent, where they (sadistically?) pointed out that our ship was sailing away along with our zodiacs. Clearly, there was no changing our minds at this point.
We took a hike to a nearby Gentoo penguin colony before circling back to our tents. No one made us hot chocolate or s’mores.
The Amundsen tent is at the far right.
It was chilly, but cozier in the tent than I’d expected. We took off our wet outer layers, crawled in the sleeping bags, and waited for morning. It sleeted against the tent most of the night, and was super noisy from the wind, but we were comfortable. Surprisingly we both got some sleep.
The orientation meeting had stressed severe bathroom limitations, and I think everyone was a little worried about that. At least one person skipped dinner just in case. However, the staff did dig out and equip a private latrine area for emergencies.
The orientation meeting had stressed severe bathroom limitations, and I think everyone was a little worried about that. At least one person skipped dinner just in case. However, the staff did dig out and equip a private latrine area for emergencies.
The snow was pretty deep!
Our wake-up call was 5 AM, but everyone was up and starting to pack up their tents before then. The penguins had wandered off. Sometimes they visit the tents to check out the interlopers, but no such luck for our group. The ship had returned and set up a champagne breakfast for us on board. It’s probably been thirty years since I last slept in a tent - what a memorable way to try it again!
We cruised into Paradise Bay towards our next stop. The scenery along the perimeter of the Bay was stunning. Glaciers spilled down the valleys, ending in 100 ft tidal walls.
We cruised into Paradise Bay towards our next stop. The scenery along the perimeter of the Bay was stunning. Glaciers spilled down the valleys, ending in 100 ft tidal walls.
The snow load looked heavy and immense, on the verge of collapse. It felt like an avalanche would occur at any time.
We were headed to Almirante Brown Antarctic Station (aka Brown Station), an Argentinian research base established in 1951.
The original encampment was burnt down by a disgruntled doctor after he was ordered to stay for the winter. I guess he showed them why volunteers are better than conscripts! The base was rebuilt, but demoted to a summer-only station. It fell into disuse earlier in this century, but since 2007 has again been used in the summer. It operates one of the most complete biology labs on the Antarctic peninsula.
The camp hasn’t opened yet for the season and the only current residents are a colony of Gentoo penguins who were on hand to greet and amuse us.
There seems to be a correlation between research bases and penguins. They co-exist easily, although by late summer I’m sure the stench is overwhelming. Penguins return to their same nesting spots year after year. Perhaps the scientists recognized that the penguins know safe places to build: no tidal surges, avalanches, presence of open water, etc.
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