2024 SE Asia and Japan - Kyoto

Such a lovely city!

After arriving from Hiroshima we checked into our ryokan in the Higashiyama ward and headed out for an evening tour of the Gion district. 

On the way we stopped at a (literal) mom and pop shop for ramen. My bowl was far too generous. 

Our tour turned out to be half in the ward where we were staying, and half in the Gion Ward (famous for geishas). 

The Shinto Yasaka Shrine was our starting point. The Shinto religion predates Buddhism. It is an animistic religion, with belief in several gods related to nature or life. It’s incorporated aspects of Buddhism and Christianity as these religions were introduced to Japan. 

The Yasaka Shrine covers a large area and includes many small shrines. 

We learned how to offer a Shinto prayer. They pray both for something to happen (or not), and in appreciation when the request is granted. 

The 5-story Yasaka Pagoda (Hokan-ji Temple) is about a mile walk away, down narrow streets with, by regulation, historic wooden architecture. It was originally built in 589, inspired by a dream. 

I couldn’t choose between these photos - so two. 

The tour headed to the Gion district which we walked slowly through while learning about geisha and maiko (apprentice geisha). Thoughtless tourists have harassed the geisha to the point that Kyoto has closed off some of the neighborhoods. Late this winter Monday night, however, the streets were pretty deserted. 

We saw this maiko and a couple geisha, hurrying out between appointments. 

We heard loud clacking sounds and saw fire marshals on foot patrolling the old neighborhoods, banging wooden batons together and calling out. The area is very vulnerable to fires and they do this to remind people to turn off stoves, snuff out cigarettes and candles, etc. before going to bed.

Out ryokan is rather posh. 

It also has the fanciest toilet I’ve ever seen (and Japan has some awesome toilets). The lid raises when you walk into the bathroom, the seat is heated. Discrete little noises from a white noise generator disguise any natural sounds, the bidet has many options and air dryers, etc. The toilet automatically flushes and then lowers the lid.  

The emergency exit outside Mark’s room is for hobbits. The sign to its right is at my eye level. 

KYOTO - Day 2

We spent today with Maya, a private guide. We’d had to narrow down a “must see” list to four destinations. With an early start to beat crowds and using public transportation (trams, trains, ride sharing) and walking, we had a splendid day and saw a few ancillary sites as well.

Kyoto was never bombed during the Second World War and thus has preserved a remarkable collection of historic neighborhoods, shrines, temples, palaces, etc. It includes seventeen UNESCO World Heritage Sites. 

1. Fushimi Inari Shrine

This shrine is dedicated to Inari, the god of rice and agriculture. First established in 711, people come here to pray for a successful harvest, family safety, business success. There are thousands of Inari shrines, but this is the principle one.

The shrine is most noted for its thousands of red torii gates. These gates, which mark the separation between secular and holy ground, are found at all Shinto shrines. But nowhere else in such abundance. 

About 800 gates line the main path, or Senbon tunnel. Other paths wind up the hill to smaller shrines, with perhaps 10,000 gates in total. 

Pairs of foxes, messengers of the Inari, appear throughout the grounds. They hold different symbols in their mouths: a key, a treasure ball, a bag of rice. 

The right side of the gates indicate the date it was installed, starting with the emperor’s name at time of installation and the year of his reign (2nd,12th etc), then the month. The left indicates the donor, which could be an individual, a family or a business. 

The wooden gates last several years before they start fading and splitting. Little sticks like paint stirrers are stuck in the ground to show where replacements are reserved. 

2. Tenryuji Temple and Arashiyama Bamboo Grove

While walking to this temple we passed a collection of little Jizo statues. They look cute, but have a sad story.  They represent Jizo Bosatsu, a divinity who protects children who die before their parents. In Japanese Buddhism it’s believed that children who die very young have not accumulated enough good karma and are sent to a kind of limbo. Jizo hides children in his sleeves and ushers them across the river to the afterlife. The statues often are dressed in red caps, jackets or bibs. 

Jizo statues

Tenryu-ji Temple was founded in 1339. The Zen Buddhist temple and its gardens are a UNESCO site. 

The gardens are designed to weave seamlessly with the surrounding mountains. Monks sitting on the temple balcony would overlook the gardens while meditating. 

A short walk away is the reknowned Arashiyama bamboo grove. 

I’d never seen bamboo grow tall enough to form a canopy. 

Kimono forest 

An art installation of traditional kimono fabric patterns near the Arashiyama tram station. 

 3. Kinkaku-ji

Commonly known as The Golden Pavilion, this striking building was built by the third Shogun in 1397 as part of the Kitsayama palace complex. 

The palace became a center of culture and politics, visited by the emperors of Japan and dignitaries from China. It’s speculated that this golden stupa was built to impress the Chinese visitors. The top two levels are completely covered with gold leaf. Photos show an interior nearly as impressive, but no one but maintenance craftsman can enter. 

The phoenix crowning the tower symbolizes life conquering death. Samurai, including the Shogun, were superstitious and liked to surround themselves with lasting life including evergreen trees. 

After the Shogun’s death, the complex became a temple. The temple garden is a Special Historic Site and a Special Place of Scenic Beauty. The Golden Pavilion is also UNESCO World Heritage Site. 


This small tea house was used for tête-a-tete meetings such as between the shogun and a Chinese leader. One entered by crawling through the small door on the left, which meant you had to leave your weapons behind. No fear of assignation in the tea house. 

Nijo-Jo Castle

This samurai castle (and World Heritage Site) was built by the first Tokugawa Shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu, in 1603. The book and television series “Shogun” are about his ascendency, which ended 230 years of civil war. His primary house was in Tokyo, so this served as a second house in, literally, the Emperor’s backyard to serve as a constant reminder as to who held the power. 

The entrance gate, embellished with symbols of power designed to intimidate, was built to be used exclusively by the emperor when he called upon the Shogun. 

The palace is closed on Tuesdays in December so we could only walk the perimeter and see the gardens. This is the main entrance to the buildings, where petitioners waited to be granted access to the audience hall. 

Within the palace, floors were designed to purposefully creak when stepped on. This served as an alarm system for would-be ninja assassins. 


The craftsmanship is exquisite. 

The gardens, as at all these sites, is lovely. The thatched-looking sheafs at center right are palm trees covered with sheets of rice straw to protect them in the winter. 

After 265 years of the Edo Shogunate and nearly 900 years of samurai rule, the 15th Tokugawa Shogun handed authority back to the emperor in 1867. The Palace is designated a National Treasure, and is the only remaining example of a fortified palace complex. 

Maya added tremendously to our appreciation of the sites we visited, providing historical, artistic and cultural perspective. 

KYOTO - Day 3

Kiyomizu-dera temple was founded over 1250 years ago. Dedicated to Kannon, a god of mercy and compassion, the temple sits halfway up Mount Otowa on Kyoto’s eastern flank. Mark walked up at dawn just as the temple complex opened. 

Greg and I went up a few hours later. The decks of the cliffside temple are supported by massive wooden beams. Kyoto is spread out below. 

Before praying, one washes with spring water. 

Greg successfully taking the challenge to raise the heavy pole 

More Jizo statues 

The fall colors peaked here two weeks ago, a few weeks later than usual. Climate change meant we saw the remnants. 

It’s very, very crowded at the temple during cherry blossom and red maple peak periods. 

We headed to Tokyo in the afternoon to visit Studio Ghibli, and then started the long trip home. Photos aren’t allowed at Ghibli, so this is the last installment for this trip. 

But one last culinary note. It was Christmas Day, and it’s quite the tradition in Japan to have KFC on Christmas. People start ordering their meals in November. So we decided to join in. 

But afterwards, we had dinner at a funny little tempura place that served tempura in flights. We sat in a little space behind sliding bamboo doors and pressed a doorbell when we wanted more. Each flight was a surprise, served in succession. No other menu options. So, a real Japanese meal to close out the trip. 

2024 SE Asia and Japan - Hue Day 2

By Greg

Our day started with a one-hour boat tour of the Perfume River. It was basically another opportunity to shop for small trinkets, flimsy t-shirts, and flowing skirts. The most exciting part of the trip was walking the 12-inch wide plank to get on and off the boat.

2. Our next stop was the Thien Mu pagoda.  This 7 story pagoda is 70 feet tall and was built in 1844. Each of its stories is dedicated to a manushi Buddha (a Buddha that appeared in human form).  

The site includes a building that houses a 2 ton bell that can be heard six miles away.

Three Buddhas stand guard of the main building; the Buddha of the Past, the historical Buddha, and the Buddha of the Future. 

Oh yeah, Greg found a cache here.

3. Our next stop was the tomb of the second emperor- Tu Duc who as described to us many times as the Strongest Emperor - physically, mentally, and sexually.  It was designed by Tu Duc himself before his death.

Guardian of his tomb

The enormous expense of the tomb and the forced labour used in its construction spawned a coup plot that was discovered and suppressed. Tu Duc lived a life of imperial luxury and carnal excess, with 104 wives and countless concubines (though no offspring). Where his remains were buried (along with great treasures) is not known. To keep it secret from grave robbers, all 200 servants who buried Tu Duc were beheaded.

4. Our fourth stop was a nun monastery where we had a nice vegetarian lunch and a delightful Q&A session with a nun who has been there for 42 years since age 12. She frankly answered questions about her daily life, her beliefs, the role of the monastery, and more.

5. We then headed to the tomb of Khai Dinh. 

Khai Dinh was the penultimate emperor of Vietnam, from 1916 to 1925, and widely seen as a puppet of the French. As each emperor had to outdo his predecessor, this overly flamboyant tomb took 11 years to construct.

The walls and ceiling are decorated with murals of the Four Seasons, Eight Precious Objects and the Eight Immortals. Under a gold-speckled concrete canopy is a gilt bronze statue of Khai Dinh, who is presumed to have been homosexual, though he did produce one heir. His remains are interred 60 ft. below the statue.

2024 SE Asia and Japan - Hiroshima

We had a 12:30 AM departure from Hanoi, and only a 4 1/2 flight. We arrived in Tokyo’s Narita airport with all our pre-documents, doctors’ lists of scripts, etc in hand, prepared for the infamous long immigration lines. I’d requested a wheelchair so I wouldn’t have to stand that long in my cast. It was great! All three of us got whisked from stage to stage: immigration, luggage collection, customs, luggage storage, local train ticketing station. Finally, something to offset all the inconveniences of the fractured foot!

After an hour ride to Shinagawa station, we grabbed brunch in the food court, got our first Eki stamps (more on them later) and boarded the bullet train to Hiroshima. 

We’d reserved seats on the right hand side in case we were lucky enough to have a clear day. And indeed we were. 

Mount Fuji had been on the wish list for all three of us when we planned this trip, but we quickly realized a stop there would take too much time on this short visit. Nice to get a good view. 

We’d set our sights on okonomiyaki, a regional specialty, for our sole dinner in Hiroshima. We settled on Okamoto’s and were not disappointed. 

The little restaurant was in an industrial building near the train station. About 20 other okonomiyaki restaurants shared the 6th floor with the one we’d selected. The little counter restaurant could serve about 10 cozy customers. 

Okonomiyaki is a savory pancake dish cooked on a teppanyaki grill (think Benihana). The toppings are the big draw, all cooked on the grill and stacked on the pancake: cabbage, meat, seafood, egg, noodles, mayonnaise, cheese, Worcestershire sauce, bonito flakes, pork belly, etc.  Our counter offered 6 varieties; we tried three. 

It was one of the most fun meals I’ve ever had. The owner and chef kept us entertained. You cut off chunks with your individual spatula and eat off your plate. The grill keeps the food warm. The plastic sheet hanging behind us keeps the heat in the small space. 

HIROSHIMA - Day 2

We started at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial, where we had booked early opening tickets for the museum. We also had audio guide tickets. 

It’s a sobering exhibit, as one would expect. We spent a couple of hours in the museum before heading outside. The museum is dedicated to documenting the city’s bombing on August 6, 1945 and its aftermath, in hopes that awareness of the devastating impact of atomic warfare deters it from ever happening again. 

The collection is full of artifacts, photographs, witness’s drawings and written/audio testimonials. It’s organized into sections about the blast zone, lost victims, survivor experiences, black rain, lost children, radiation effects, orphans, development of the atomic bomb, anti-nuclear treaties, etc. It also fully acknowledges Japan’s accountability for instigating the war in the Pacific. 

I took only one photo inside. It didn’t occur to me. Seeing the torn and burned clothing of children who were never found, or a child’s tricycle, or gruesome photos of burn victims or keloid scars don’t belong here. 

The Peace Park contains much more than the museum, shown above. It’s a wide park-like area covering much of the blast zone with monuments and memorials. 

The Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims is a chamber below a clock frozen at 8:15, the time of the bombing. Approached by a slanting circular track that descends deep underground, it commemorates all of victims of the atomic bombings in Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Over 140,000 small tiles honor the dead. 

The chest under the cenotaph in the center of the Peace Park holds a list of all of the victims. In the distance, the Atomic Dome. 

This young boy is examining before and after models of the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall. The bomb exploded almost directly above the hall, sparing it from most of the outward flow of the blast. After years of debate it was decided to preserve the skeleton, known since the blast as the Atomic Dome. 

The Peace Bell. Visitors can toll it by hitting it with the log suspended to its left. 

The Children’s Peace Monument was paid for by donations from children in thousands of schools in Japan and around the world. 

The colorful showcases behind the monument are crammed full of paper cranes. The girl whose death inspired the monument died from leukemia 10 years after she was exposed in the blast. She had made endless cranes after learning that if you make a thousand paper cranes, your wish will come true. 

About a mile from the Atomic Dome is Hiroshima Castle, built by feudal lord Terumoto Mori in 1591 after he visited the castle in Kyoto. The multi-moat enclosed castle complex was used as the Imperial Army General Headquarters during World War II. The entire complex was destroyed in the atomic bomb. 

The reconstructed castle is, as was the original, in the lower right corner of the center square. 

The Hiroshima Gokoku Shrine is contained within the park-like castle grounds. Gokoku shrines are Shinto shrines built to honor dead killed in war. Its torii gate survived the atomic blast. The shrine was rebuilt after the war. 

Prayers are written on the wood boards to the right and unlucky fortune left as paper knots on the left. 

The castle itself - imposing and beautiful. 

Inside were artifacts and displays on the origin of the castle, and various furniture, weaponry, armor etc used by the feudal lords and their samurai. There was less English signage the higher you went. 

Nonetheless, Mark made it to the top balcony. 

We took the bullet train to Kyoto, checked into our ryokan (traditional Japanese inn), granted a quick dinner and headed to our night tour of Kyoto’s Gion District.