After arriving from Hiroshima we checked into our ryokan in the Higashiyama ward and headed out for an evening tour of the Gion district.
On the way we stopped at a (literal) mom and pop shop for ramen. My bowl was far too generous.
The Shinto Yasaka Shrine was our starting point. The Shinto religion predates Buddhism. It is an animistic religion, with belief in several gods related to nature or life. It’s incorporated aspects of Buddhism and Christianity as these religions were introduced to Japan.
We learned how to offer a Shinto prayer. They pray both for something to happen (or not), and in appreciation when the request is granted.
The 5-story Yasaka Pagoda (Hokan-ji Temple) is about a mile walk away, down narrow streets with, by regulation, historic wooden architecture. It was originally built in 589, inspired by a dream.
I couldn’t choose between these photos - so two.
We saw this maiko and a couple geisha, hurrying out between appointments.
About 800 gates line the main path, or Senbon tunnel. Other paths wind up the hill to smaller shrines, with perhaps 10,000 gates in total.
Pairs of foxes, messengers of the Inari, appear throughout the grounds. They hold different symbols in their mouths: a key, a treasure ball, a bag of rice.
2. Tenryuji Temple and Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Jizo statues
The gardens are designed to weave seamlessly with the surrounding mountains. Monks sitting on the temple balcony would overlook the gardens while meditating.
An art installation of traditional kimono fabric patterns near the Arashiyama tram station.
The palace became a center of culture and politics, visited by the emperors of Japan and dignitaries from China. It’s speculated that this golden stupa was built to impress the Chinese visitors. The top two levels are completely covered with gold leaf. Photos show an interior nearly as impressive, but no one but maintenance craftsman can enter.
After the Shogun’s death, the complex became a temple. The temple garden is a Special Historic Site and a Special Place of Scenic Beauty. The Golden Pavilion is also UNESCO World Heritage Site.
This small tea house was used for tête-a-tete meetings such as between the shogun and a Chinese leader. One entered by crawling through the small door on the left, which meant you had to leave your weapons behind. No fear of assignation in the tea house.
The entrance gate, embellished with symbols of power designed to intimidate, was built to be used exclusively by the emperor when he called upon the Shogun.
The palace is closed on Tuesdays in December so we could only walk the perimeter and see the gardens. This is the main entrance to the buildings, where petitioners waited to be granted access to the audience hall.
Within the palace, floors were designed to purposefully creak when stepped on. This served as an alarm system for would-be ninja assassins.
The craftsmanship is exquisite.
The gardens, as at all these sites, is lovely. The thatched-looking sheafs at center right are palm trees covered with sheets of rice straw to protect them in the winter.
Greg and I went up a few hours later. The decks of the cliffside temple are supported by massive wooden beams. Kyoto is spread out below.
Before praying, one washes with spring water.
Greg successfully taking the challenge to raise the heavy pole
More Jizo statues
The fall colors peaked here two weeks ago, a few weeks later than usual. Climate change meant we saw the remnants.
It’s very, very crowded at the temple during cherry blossom and red maple peak periods.
But afterwards, we had dinner at a funny little tempura place that served tempura in flights. We sat in a little space behind sliding bamboo doors and pressed a doorbell when we wanted more. Each flight was a surprise, served in succession. No other menu options. So, a real Japanese meal to close out the trip.
On the way we stopped at a (literal) mom and pop shop for ramen. My bowl was far too generous.
Our tour turned out to be half in the ward where we were staying, and half in the Gion Ward (famous for geishas).
The Shinto Yasaka Shrine was our starting point. The Shinto religion predates Buddhism. It is an animistic religion, with belief in several gods related to nature or life. It’s incorporated aspects of Buddhism and Christianity as these religions were introduced to Japan.
The Yasaka Shrine covers a large area and includes many small shrines.
We learned how to offer a Shinto prayer. They pray both for something to happen (or not), and in appreciation when the request is granted.
The 5-story Yasaka Pagoda (Hokan-ji Temple) is about a mile walk away, down narrow streets with, by regulation, historic wooden architecture. It was originally built in 589, inspired by a dream.
I couldn’t choose between these photos - so two.
The tour headed to the Gion district which we walked slowly through while learning about geisha and maiko (apprentice geisha). Thoughtless tourists have harassed the geisha to the point that Kyoto has closed off some of the neighborhoods. Late this winter Monday night, however, the streets were pretty deserted.
We saw this maiko and a couple geisha, hurrying out between appointments.
We heard loud clacking sounds and saw fire marshals on foot patrolling the old neighborhoods, banging wooden batons together and calling out. The area is very vulnerable to fires and they do this to remind people to turn off stoves, snuff out cigarettes and candles, etc. before going to bed.
Out ryokan is rather posh.
It also has the fanciest toilet I’ve ever seen (and Japan has some awesome toilets). The lid raises when you walk into the bathroom, the seat is heated. Discrete little noises from a white noise generator disguise any natural sounds, the bidet has many options and air dryers, etc. The toilet automatically flushes and then lowers the lid.
The emergency exit outside Mark’s room is for hobbits. The sign to its right is at my eye level.
KYOTO - Day 2
We spent today with Maya, a private guide. We’d had to narrow down a “must see” list to four destinations. With an early start to beat crowds and using public transportation (trams, trains, ride sharing) and walking, we had a splendid day and saw a few ancillary sites as well.
Kyoto was never bombed during the Second World War and thus has preserved a remarkable collection of historic neighborhoods, shrines, temples, palaces, etc. It includes seventeen UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
1. Fushimi Inari Shrine
This shrine is dedicated to Inari, the god of rice and agriculture. First established in 711, people come here to pray for a successful harvest, family safety, business success. There are thousands of Inari shrines, but this is the principle one.
The shrine is most noted for its thousands of red torii gates. These gates, which mark the separation between secular and holy ground, are found at all Shinto shrines. But nowhere else in such abundance.
About 800 gates line the main path, or Senbon tunnel. Other paths wind up the hill to smaller shrines, with perhaps 10,000 gates in total.
Pairs of foxes, messengers of the Inari, appear throughout the grounds. They hold different symbols in their mouths: a key, a treasure ball, a bag of rice.
The right side of the gates indicate the date it was installed, starting with the emperor’s name at time of installation and the year of his reign (2nd,12th etc), then the month. The left indicates the donor, which could be an individual, a family or a business.
The wooden gates last several years before they start fading and splitting. Little sticks like paint stirrers are stuck in the ground to show where replacements are reserved.
While walking to this temple we passed a collection of little Jizo statues. They look cute, but have a sad story. They represent Jizo Bosatsu, a divinity who protects children who die before their parents. In Japanese Buddhism it’s believed that children who die very young have not accumulated enough good karma and are sent to a kind of limbo. Jizo hides children in his sleeves and ushers them across the river to the afterlife. The statues often are dressed in red caps, jackets or bibs.
Jizo statues
Tenryu-ji Temple was founded in 1339. The Zen Buddhist temple and its gardens are a UNESCO site.
The gardens are designed to weave seamlessly with the surrounding mountains. Monks sitting on the temple balcony would overlook the gardens while meditating.
A short walk away is the reknowned Arashiyama bamboo grove.
I’d never seen bamboo grow tall enough to form a canopy.
Kimono forest
An art installation of traditional kimono fabric patterns near the Arashiyama tram station.
3. Kinkaku-ji
Commonly known as The Golden Pavilion, this striking building was built by the third Shogun in 1397 as part of the Kitsayama palace complex.
The palace became a center of culture and politics, visited by the emperors of Japan and dignitaries from China. It’s speculated that this golden stupa was built to impress the Chinese visitors. The top two levels are completely covered with gold leaf. Photos show an interior nearly as impressive, but no one but maintenance craftsman can enter.
The phoenix crowning the tower symbolizes life conquering death. Samurai, including the Shogun, were superstitious and liked to surround themselves with lasting life including evergreen trees.
After the Shogun’s death, the complex became a temple. The temple garden is a Special Historic Site and a Special Place of Scenic Beauty. The Golden Pavilion is also UNESCO World Heritage Site.
This small tea house was used for tête-a-tete meetings such as between the shogun and a Chinese leader. One entered by crawling through the small door on the left, which meant you had to leave your weapons behind. No fear of assignation in the tea house.
Nijo-Jo Castle
This samurai castle (and World Heritage Site) was built by the first Tokugawa Shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu, in 1603. The book and television series “Shogun” are about his ascendency, which ended 230 years of civil war. His primary house was in Tokyo, so this served as a second house in, literally, the Emperor’s backyard to serve as a constant reminder as to who held the power.
The entrance gate, embellished with symbols of power designed to intimidate, was built to be used exclusively by the emperor when he called upon the Shogun.
The palace is closed on Tuesdays in December so we could only walk the perimeter and see the gardens. This is the main entrance to the buildings, where petitioners waited to be granted access to the audience hall.
Within the palace, floors were designed to purposefully creak when stepped on. This served as an alarm system for would-be ninja assassins.
The craftsmanship is exquisite.
The gardens, as at all these sites, is lovely. The thatched-looking sheafs at center right are palm trees covered with sheets of rice straw to protect them in the winter.
After 265 years of the Edo Shogunate and nearly 900 years of samurai rule, the 15th Tokugawa Shogun handed authority back to the emperor in 1867. The Palace is designated a National Treasure, and is the only remaining example of a fortified palace complex.
Maya added tremendously to our appreciation of the sites we visited, providing historical, artistic and cultural perspective.
KYOTO - Day 3
Kiyomizu-dera temple was founded over 1250 years ago. Dedicated to Kannon, a god of mercy and compassion, the temple sits halfway up Mount Otowa on Kyoto’s eastern flank. Mark walked up at dawn just as the temple complex opened.
Greg and I went up a few hours later. The decks of the cliffside temple are supported by massive wooden beams. Kyoto is spread out below.
Before praying, one washes with spring water.
Greg successfully taking the challenge to raise the heavy pole
More Jizo statues
The fall colors peaked here two weeks ago, a few weeks later than usual. Climate change meant we saw the remnants.
It’s very, very crowded at the temple during cherry blossom and red maple peak periods.
We headed to Tokyo in the afternoon to visit Studio Ghibli, and then started the long trip home. Photos aren’t allowed at Ghibli, so this is the last installment for this trip.
But one last culinary note. It was Christmas Day, and it’s quite the tradition in Japan to have KFC on Christmas. People start ordering their meals in November. So we decided to join in.
But afterwards, we had dinner at a funny little tempura place that served tempura in flights. We sat in a little space behind sliding bamboo doors and pressed a doorbell when we wanted more. Each flight was a surprise, served in succession. No other menu options. So, a real Japanese meal to close out the trip.
Love the bamboo canopy!
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