Vietnamese pancake - favorite for all three of us
Snake fish filets with dill and morning glory
National dish - pho. Yum!
Sprawling, bustling, aggressive Ben Thanh market. Coffee, candy, suits made to order in a day, luggage, street food, etc
SAIGON - Day 2
So many facts as we drove to the Chu Ci Tunnels this morning! Our Vietnamese guide Tran is knowledgeable and entertaining.
Vietnam was a French colony for about 100 years, from mid 19th to mid 20th century. They were harsh governors, basically treating the Vietnamese as slaves. They did, however, introduce coffee here and Vietnam is now the world’s second largest exporter after Brazil.
Saigon has 11 million people, 8 million scooters and huge traffic jams.
Vietnamese major players in the American war
NVA - North Vietnamese Army. Volunteers walked 1,000 miles along Ho Chi Minh Trail from Hanoi through central highlands to Saigon region. 700,000 of them.
VC - Viet Cong local communist fighters in the south
Viet Minh - initially 1940s, formed to fight the French
3MM Vietnamese died in American War
CHU CI TUNNELS
1949 first level built by Viet Minh to resist the French colonizers. 10 ft deep, 20 miles.
1960s expanded by Viet Cong during American War, eventually reaching 125 miles and 3 levels. The ground here is very hard and no structural reinforcements are necessary.
Tunnel entrances are small and well-camouflaged
The network of connecting tunnels could house up to 6,000 people. They were used by the Viet Cong as a base from which to launch attacks, including the Tet offensive.
After the DMZ, this was the most bombed area during the war. Foliage was stripped by Agent Orange. We saw huge B-52 craters which the Viet Cong used as sunken theatre spaces.
Several styles of bamboo traps were designed to maim and kill the enemy patrolling above.
Foxholes and sniper posts surround the tunnels. Ventilation shafts released smoke and poisonous gases. Tunnel facilities included hospitals, kitchens, weapon production and bunk rooms.
Ventilation hole disguised as anthill
Destroyed American tanks were stripped for salvage and left to rust
A section of tunnel has been widened and the ceiling raised to allow intrepid visitors to enter. Requirements include no claustrophobia and the ability to crawl or duckwalk.
Jade Emperor Pagoda
In Vietnam, different form of Buddhism than Thailand/Laos/Cambodia. Buddhist pagodas instead of temples.
Built in 1909 by the Chinese. Very atmospheric with carved wood and huge painted guardians. This pagoda was built to honor the Jade Emperor (who is not jade) aka the King of Heaven. You can’t photograph the Jade Emperor or his Guardians, but you can take photos in a side chamber that represents the journey through hell.
Not sure why the safe is there
Every Buddhist goes to hell when they die, then work their way through tests to determine how they will be reborn. A human reincarnation is preferable to a warthog or a mosquito or other animal.
There are 10 panels showing judgment for various faults. You work your way through the panels and can get kicked back in the process for a do-over if you failed at something really heinous, like disrespecting your parents.
Another room contained the 12 goddesses of fertility - who determine gender, skin color, etc. People pray to them for a spouse or children.
We drove by the Notre Dame Cathedral Basilica of Saigon (shrouded in netting and scaffolding) and visited the 19th century post office, a late 19th century iron-framed French Indochine building. The latter still functions as post office, but also contains a dozen small shops for tourists.
SAIGON - Day 3
Most of our group went to the Mekong Delta for the day. We opted to stay in the city.
War Remnants Museum
This museum opened in 1975 and has gone through several iterations in content and name. It is the most popular museum in HCMC with western tourists. We saw about half Asian visitors, half western.
The museum presents history and artifacts related to French colonization and the Vietnam (or American, if you are Vietnamese) War. It’s partitioned into galleries focused on Historical Truths, photojournalism, Agent Orange, War Crimes, Imprisonment Systems during the war, etc. It’s deeply troubling and moving. It’s advised to take a break when you need to. And you do need to.
As an adolescent during much of this war and from subsequent reading, I am familiar with the big picture but learned a fair amount of history here, especially with regard to motivation for getting involved. Seems we never learn.
The outer courtyard holds a collection of American tanks, helicopters and planes.
Tiger cages made of barbed wire could hold several prisoners.
This exhibition, which traveled the world before being donated to the Vietnamese people, was stunning.
Just some facts
Greg went geocaching while Mark and I got 90 minute traditional Vietnamese massages.
We had another street food tour booked this evening. I bailed after the first stop as it was raining heavily and I can’t get my cast wet. But they brought me coconut-avocado ice cream! So Mark’s taking over here:
After a first stop trying different Vietnamese pancakes such as Bánh Xèo we bid a regretful farewell to my mom and continued through the off and on rain
Greg and I tried a variety of southern Vietnamese street foods as well as some standards like Bánh mì and Nước mía (ever present sugar cane drink)
The stand out dish for both of us was Sò điệp nướng mỡ hành, đậu phộng - the absolutely amazing scallops pictured below
Overall this was another fun culinary adventure, although slightly dampened by the weather and my mom’s early departure
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