Thailand uses a different calendar than the Gregorian calendar used by the west. Buddhist Era (BE) starts the year after the Buddha’s parinurvana, which was 543 years before our Common Era. So it’s 2567 here in Chiang Mai. (also in Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar and Sri Lanka)
Greg and I took a tuktuk into Chiang Mai’s old walled city center to explore. The walls (728 years old) are mostly gone, though the entire area is still enclosed by a wide moat.
Chiang Mai has over 300 temples, or Wats, with over 75 in the old town alone. We visited three.
Wat Chedi Luang - for its contrast between ancient and modern
Young men were circling this monument as we arrived, decking it in colorful ribbons
The building on the left houses the city pillar, dedicated to the spirit of Chiang Mai. No women are allowed to enter, but Greg was able to take a look.
It’s hard to envision how this site looked 100 years ago. The original temple dates to the 14th century. The main viharn (entrance above) was built in 1928 and was restored during the pandemic.
The 27 ft standing Buddha was cast in the late 14th century
The hall is stunning, but the real surprise was yet to come.
The hall is stunning, but the real surprise was yet to come.
Behind it stands the remains of a towering 14th century chedi (stupa) on a massive platform. The original temple was completed in 1400s and held the Emerald Buddha, the most sacred religious object in Thailand. (now in Bangkok)
The chedi collapsed in an earthquake less than 100 years later. The temple fell into ruin and was never rebuilt. A few elephants remain, supporting the top levels.
By studying similar temples and remains from the collapse, academics estimate that the original chedi stood 265 ft high with a base diameter of 175 ft. They theorize that the chedi collapsed because of tunnels built under the supporting structure.
Greg and I were approached by teams of students from the Thai-English school. They were high school age, super cute and enthusiastic as they interviewed us individually for a school assignment.
Wat Phan Tao - for its teakiness
This temple was founded in the 14th century, originally providing living quarters for the monks at Wat Chedi Luang next door. It’s name means Temple of a Thousand Kilns, after the ovens it used to cast Buddhas for local temples. It later served as a royal residence before returning to a temple.
The vihran, or assembly hall, is known as the most beautiful and atmospheric teak virhan in Chiang Mai.
The dark teak columns and latticed ceiling lend an air of repose.
The central figure is draped in shimmery gold cloth. Two motionless monks silently offered their devotions.
And then caught up on their social media.
Wat Phra Singh - for sheer opulence and monks
So many Buddhas!
So much gold!
I assumed these were real until I saw someone hesitantly touch one.
These were real
The Three Kings Monument celebrates the mutual defense pact made between three northern Thai tribes, founding Chiang Mai in 1287.
While Greg and I spent the morning exploring the old city, Mark was off on an adventure of his own.
Mark:
I was off on a small group tour to a sticky, climbable waterfall outside the city
The natural spring that feeds the stream has very high calcium content, creating limestone that is very easy to climb up and down
Our guide recommended an early start to beat the crowds, and sure enough our group of seven had the place to ourselves for the first hour and it was only towards the end of the second hour that we saw other visitors
It was great to be in the mountains and find some peace with nature, a much needed change of pace from the temples and larger group atmosphere
After the waterfall we visited a nearby cave complex with a large Buddha statue that a hermit monk had created 110 years ago. Unlike the waterfall, this site was off the beaten path and even at the height of the day no one else had climbed the 246 steps to visit the cave.
A great day and a fantastic reset from the bad vibes of the hill tribe experience the day before!
CHIANG MAI - Day 2
Today, Dec 5, is the previous king’s (Rama IX) birthday. Schools and government offices are closed. Thai people wear yellow to commemorate him as he was born on Monday.
Wat Suan Dok
The Wat Suan Dok compound includes a temple, a Buddhist universityand the burial place for the Chiang Mai royal family.
A Buddha stands back to back with the sitting Buddha
Detail on temple facade
In the hazy distance to the right above the cemetery is our next destination, Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep.
Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep
An elephant chose the mountaintop location for this temple when he carried the relics of the Buddha here.
Greg and Mark climbed the 300+ step Naga (mythological dragon-headed serpent) staircase up to the temple. I took the cable car.
A special ceremony for the late king’s birthday was ongoing, with prayers and chanting, and a VIP section for the monks and devotees in yellow).
The full gamut of Buddhas: walking, standing, snake, reclining, etc.
Our last night in Thailand was scheduled to be a home hosted dinner. None of us were particularly enamored with that idea so we had scheduled a separate food tour
Focused on Michelin’s bib gourmand recommendations, our guide Minty took us all over the city (occasionally chauffeured by her mom) to try everything from tapioca dumplings to noodle soups to Burmese curry.
It was a true feast spread out over four hours (18 courses if you count the pickled fruits she bought that we tried at breakfast the next day).
We started in Chinatown
Sakoo sei moo - sweet, salty tapioca dumpling dipped in crispy garlic
Yong tau foo - Chinese noodle soup with crispy fish.
A variety of northern Thai appetizers, to be eaten with sticky rice (not pictured). Burmese curry lower right was a fan favorite
Guava salad (similar to papaya salad)
Mango sticky rice
Fried bamboo worms. Bet you can’t eat just one.
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