Thursday, January 2, 2020

2019-2020 Christmas Cruise - Andalusia: Transfer Barcelona to Granada

We had a few hours to kill between disembarking in Barcelona this morning and our late afternoon flight to Granada. Bryan and Erin headed to Sagrada Familia and fly home early tomorrow. Jeff, Mark, Greg and I are spending 3 days in Granada before the boys return to Barcelona and Greg and I head on to Córdoba and Sevilla. 

The four of us took a taxi to the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya. The museum is housed in the Palau Nacional (Catalan for ‘National Palace’), a beautiful imposing building on the hill of Montjuïc near Plaça Espanya. It was the main site of the International Exhibition held in Barcelona in 1929. 

We were surprised to discover that the museum was free for seniors. An audioguide is available, but there is good multi-language signage explaining each of the 83 exhibit rooms so we relied only on that. 


It’s the huge building back on the hill. The floor plan covers 32,000 sq meters or 340,000 square feet. The museum has four large galleries featuring medieval, gothic, renaissance and Baroque, modern art and numismatics. In addition, there is a large open oval hall behind the main gallery spaces which appears to be a performance or event venue. One end is dominated by an imposing pipe organ. 




The central dome in the building was so high that at first it escapes one attention. 





There were works by Miro, Picasso, Velazquez, Dali, Goya, Gaudi and El Greco. But mostly the artists were unfamiliar to me. 

I took photos of a few sculptures and large glass screens. By far the largest part of the collection is paintings, with a dabbling of furniture, films and photographs. 











We took the aerobus to the airport and had an uneventful flight to the small Granada airport. Saw a great sunset over snow capped mountains from the plane. There were formations in the foreground that looked like America’s Painted Desert. 



There is a bus to the old city that runs only after each flight arrives in Granada. It’s only 3€ for about a 40 minute ride to the cathedral. Our Airbnb was a short walk away. We were surprised to be met right at the bus stop by our delightful host, Anastasia. She walked us back to our apartment, pointing out points of interest and good places to dine or buy chocolate along the way.

She spent about an hour with us, going over maps and providing suggestions for how to spend our next couple of days: places to eat, walking routes, where to catch the bus, where to buy a snack to take to the Alhambra, etc.  She’s very outgoing and enthusiastic.

After she left we headed out to dine Spanish style. People go for drinks and tapas around eight or nine, and eventually get around to dinner some time around 10. The four of us shared a big plate of Spanish cheeses and cured meats, pickles and fruit with some wine. Then we tried another place for more drinks and tapas. There were some very interesting taste combinations. My favorite was a salmon salad, which was served as a thick loaf comprised of smoked salmon, avocado, mango, and mayo. The whole thing was sprinkled with finely grated unsweetened coconut and the plate garnished with a drizzle of chocolate. 

We are late to bed tonight, but hope to be out at a reasonable hour to explore the old city neighbourhoods.  






Wednesday, January 1, 2020

2019-2020 Christmas Cruise - Andalusia: Day 6 At Sea

At sea today, so no adventures into port. The Grandiosa is one of the new megaships, with 19 decks. The staterooms are on floors named for various painters, with slightly modified prints of some of their more famous works. 


Deck 8 - Monet


Deck 9 - Van Gogh


Deck 10 - Miro


Deck 11 - Dali


Deck 12 - Rafaello


Deck 13 - Goya

Deck 14 - Magritte

The crew went all out at the buffet today. 










We all slept late and enjoyed a lazy day. Played some games; Erin and I went to the spa. Then an early night to pack and prepare for disembarkation tomorrow morning. 

2019-2020 Christmas Cruise - Andalusia: Day 5 Malta

Today we’re docked in Valletta, Malta. The city has a large natural harbor extending 4 km in from the sea. It’s naturally protected, made even more secure with the construction of massive forts on both sides of the narrow entrance. 






(A giraffe crane also watches over the harbor)

Flanking the cruiseport are similar huge walls with portals, former warehouses of the Knights of Malta. 

The small (120 sq miles) island nation of Malta was originally settled by Phoenicians from what is now Lebanon. Like many countries in the Mediterranean, it was subsequently governed by a long list of rulers. The Maltese language is unique and reflects this history. Word origins are 75% Arabic and 25% Latin in origin, and is written using the Latin alphabet. 

Malta’s population has grown over the past decade or so from 380,000 to about 500,000. The increase is due to an expanding economy, peaceful status and the government policy (not endorsed by all Maltese) of recruiting immigrants to maintain the growth. 

For centuries, it was safer and thus more desirable (and expensive) to live inland. Today, most people prefer the coast. 

We had booked a tour of Mdina and Valetta, the current and former capitals of Malta. 


Mdina is a planned small city only 1 square kilometer in size. It was designed to be defendable, and is enclosed by a dry moat and incredibly impenetrable high stone walls. Picture Kings Landing in Game of Thrones. In fact, that’s just what the producers of the show did. Malta was used extensively for location spots in the first season. 






At the top of the city wall...


... looking over the countryside

The Cathedral in Mdina is dedicated to St. Paul (who shipwrecked on Malta in 60 AD) and St. Peter. It’s in Mdina’s main square. 






Very busy Christmas village

The town is a warren of narrow deserted streets. Although the official population has dwindled to around 400, in reality about half that many people live there full time. 







Grand house on the cathedral square

We were bussed back to Valletta and walked to some gardens with a fine overlook (and public restrooms). 





Valletta is also surrounded by a moat and massive walls enclosing mostly narrow streets.


Note the tiny couple walking by the tower. 



But there are also broader boulevards and open spaces surrounded by public and government buildings. Many incorporate Arabic designs like enclosed balconies.




The main street was incredibly crowded. 


But Greg found a deserted place to search for a geocache. 

We were back on the ship in time for a late lunch. Erin and I hit the spa thermal area before we all gathered for New Year’s Eve dinner. 



Most of us managed to stay up until midnight, when we watched the exuberant party in the ship’s main gathering area. It was crazy crowded. We were happy to be above the fray!